Lavender Within - Melt and Pour Soap

Lavender Within - Melt and Pour Soap

🌿 Love the look of botanicals in soap but tired of them turning brown or going bad? We’ve got the perfect (and gorgeous) solution—make your own botanicals from melt and pour soap! 🌸

It’s completely safe for your soap, super fun to craft, and the end result is seriously impressive. For this creation, we used Stephenson’s new Natural Clear Base alongside their rich Shea Butter Base—and the clarity and finish are stunning.

To capture the calming beauty of lavender, we paired it with French Lavender Fragrance and a blend of Purple Micas for that perfect floral vibe.

✨ Curious how they're made? Keep reading for the full step-by-step guide to create these stunning soaps at home!


Click here to download the detailed Step-by-Step PDF Guide!

Recommended Ingredients:

  • 1kg Stephenson Shea Butter Melt & Pour Soap
  • 1kg Stephenson Natural Transparent Melt & Pour Soap
  • 30ml French Lavender Fragrance Oil
  • 250ml Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
  • 2x 0.15cc scoops of Springtime Green Mica
  • 2x 0.15cc scoops of Purple Orchid Mica
  • 2 x 0.15cc scoops of Majestic Violet Mica
  • Poppy seeds


Recommended Utensils:

  • Round Silicone Soap Mold
  • 3 x Mini Silicone Measuring Cup
  • 2 x Easy Pour Measuring Cups
  • 3 x small mixing cup
  • 0.15 cc Plastic Scoop
  • Stainless Steel Heavy Gauge Soap Cutter
  • Scale 
  • Baking paper sheet
  • Sticks to stir
  • Grater
  • Gloves
  • Microwave or Double Boiler



Directions:

  • Step 1: Chop the Stephenson Natural Transparent Melt & Pour soap into small cubes. Weigh out exactly 180g and set aside.

 

  • Step 2: Cut the Stephenson Shea Butter Melt & Pour soap into small cubes. Weigh out 220g. Place both soap bases into separate easy-pour cups and melt in the microwave using 10-second intervals, stirring in between. Avoid overheating—it can cause sweating in the final product.

 

  • Step 3: From your melted clear base, measure out 50g. Add 1g of the French Lavender fragrance oil and stir well to incorporate.

 

  • Step 4: In separate small cups, mix a small amount of isopropyl alcohol with each mica: Springtime Green, Purple Orchid and Majestic Violet. These will be your colorants.

 

  • Step 5: Add the Springtime Green mica mix to your 50g portion of scented clear base and stir to blend.

 

  • Step 6: Thinly pour the green soap onto a piece of parchment paper to form a flat sheet. Let it set.

 

  • Step 7: Once firm, peel off the soap. 

 

  • Step 8: Trim the edges straight. Cut into two rectangular pieces and roll each into a stem shape. Test the fit in your mold—trim if needed so it fits vertically.

 

  • Step 9: Add 60g each of the melted white base and the melted clear base to two mixing cups. Color the clear base with Purple Orchid, and the white base with Majestic Violet. Add 1g of fragrance oil to each and mix well. Pour into round cavity molds and let set completely.

 

  • Step 10:Once firm, remove the purple soaps and grate them into fine shreds—these will mimic lavender buds.

 

  • Step 11: Pour unscented, uncolored clear base into two clean cavities to create a clear base layer. Spritz with isopropyl alcohol to eliminate bubbles and let set for 30 minutes

 

  • Step 12:
    Spritz the clear set layer with alcohol. Add a few purple shreds. 

 

  • Step 13: Then gently press the green stem into place. 

 

  • Step 14: Add more purple shreds around it for fullness. Spritz again to help the next layer adhere.

 

  • Step 15: Carefully pour a thin layer of unscented clear soap over the lavender sprig. Pour slowly and ensure the soap isn’t too hot—this helps avoid melting the shreds. Spritz with alcohol to pop any bubbles.

 

  • Step 16: Color 100g of white base with more Majestic Violet mica to achieve your desired shade. Add 3g of fragrance oil and mix thoroughly.

 

  • Step 17: If you’d like an exfoliating texture, sprinkle poppy seeds on top of the clear layer before pouring the final purple layer.

 

  • Step 18: Spritz your soaps with Isopropyl alcohol, then pour the purple base over the top. Let the bars sit undisturbed for at least 6 hours to fully set.

 

  • Step 19: Carefully remove your soaps from the molds. To preserve their beauty, wrap or package them to keep dry. They're ready to use right away—no curing needed!

Note:

All recipes are provided for the use of the customers of Voyageur Soap & Candle Company Ltd. Their electronic or print reproduction is strictly forbidden. 

All formulas and recipes have been formulated by Voyageur but we accept no liability as to their effectiveness or the success of the formulas when being made. It is essential that good manufacturing practices are followed in their use, and it is the responsibility of the user to meet the appropriate regulatory requirements of their jurisdiction in all matters. 

All formulas remain the property of Voyageur, and their reproduction or redistribution is strictly forbidden without our written consent.

Common Issues:

Discoloration: 
Fragrance Oils are most of the time the Culprit when a soap discolors. Some fragrance oils already have a dark color straight out of the bottle. Also you will want to check each fragrance for its Vanillin content. If the Fragrance contains Vanillin, your soap will over time turn to a tan color. Some Fragrances can even turn them to a very dark brown. Keep that in mind when wanting to make a bright or white colored soap.


Ripples: 
Ripples can happen when the Soap is not fully hardened and the mold is being moved or a fan or air draft is blowing across the cooling soap.


Bubbles: 
Bubbles happen when mixing fragrance and colorants into the soap, however they burst easily by being sprayed with Isopropyl Alcohol


Sweating: 
If your Soap starts sweating after a few days of making it , it could be due to the humidity . It's best to package Melt and Pour Soap right away into shrink wrap or plastic wrap. Sweating does not mean that your soap is bad, it merely does not look appealing. However, sweating can also be caused by overheating the base. So be sure to not have it boil in your microwave . Even if the base starts steaming as you remove it from the microwave it's very likely burned.
If you have a lot of issues with your melt and pour sweating, try our SFIC Low Sweat White and SFIC Low Sweat Clear bases.

 

Botanicals: 
While dried Botanicals look amazing in Soaps, they are not compatible with Melt and Pour Soap. Due to Melt and Pour Soap being Glycerin based it will rehydrate dried Botanicals and cause them to eventually mold . Lavender buds will turn the soap brown and moldy so it's best to refrain from adding them into your soap. 


Layers separating: 
When adding a 2nd layer to a soap you may notice it separating from the first layer, if this happens you likely poured the 2nd layer too long after pouring the first. The bottom layer has to solidify but cannot be too cold. The top layer cannot be too hot nor too cold.You can also score the first layer and be sure to spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol as it helps the layers to adhere to each other.


Low lather:
Adding too much of an additive will reduce lather. This is often seen when adding powders or additional oils.

Powders such as clays or even activated charcoal in excess will increase the volume of the soap,with more of the powder there will be less soap hence your lather will be affected.

Adding oils will also cause this low lather affect. While adding oils will increase moisture it will decrease the ability to lather, as oil by itself does not lather.

To prevent a loss in lather use small amounts of additives to your soap, just enough to give the desired affect but not too much to disrupt the ratio of soap to additive.

 

 

 

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