All colors, all love, always welcome here. 🌈 We’re embracing the spirit of color and self-expression with these vibrant "love in full bloom" melt and pour soaps, made using our Large Peony 3D Silicone Mold, Stephenson Triple Butter Melt & Pour Base, bold Neon Powders, and our uplifting Aphrodite Essential Oil Blend.
Click here to download the detailed Step-by-Step PDF Guide!
(makes 1x)
Recommended Ingredients:
- 100g Stephenson Triple Butter Melt & Pour Soap
- 3g Aphrodite Essential Oil
- 250ml Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
- 2x 0.15cc scoops of Neon Hot Pink Kisses Powder
- 2x 0.15cc scoops of Neon Nuclear Orange Powder
- 2 x 0.15cc scoops of Neon Yellow Electric Slide Powder
- 2 x 0.15cc scoops of Neon Bright Green Powder
- 2x 0.15cc scoops of Neon Blue Disco Pants Powder
- 2x 0.15cc scoops of Neon House Party Purple Powder
Recommended Utensils:
- Large Peony Flower 3D Silicone Mold
- Silicone Stir and Pour Measuring Cup
- 6 x small mixing cup
- 0.15 cc Plastic Scoop
- Stainless Steel Heavy Gauge Soap Cutter
- Scale
- Sticks to stir
- Gloves
- Microwave or Double Boiler
Directions:
- Step 1: Cut the melt & pour base into small cubes and place them into a microwave-safe measuring cup. Heat in 10-second intervals, stirring between each, until fully melted. Avoid overheating—if the base starts to bubble, it may sweat later and lose quality.
- Step 2: Once melted, stir in your essential oil or fragrance oil thoroughly.
- Step 3: Lightly spritz each of the 6 small mixing cups with isopropyl alcohol. Add 2 small scoops of each neon powder into its own cup and gently mix.
- Step 4: Pour about 10g of the melted white soap base into each mixing cup. Stir each until smooth and evenly colored.
- Step 5: Carefully pour each neon-colored mixture into different sections of the peony mold petals.
- Step 6: Once the colors are in, pour the remaining white base into the mold to fill it to the top. Spritz the surface with isopropyl alcohol to eliminate any bubbles.
- Step 7: Let the soap sit undisturbed for 1–2 hours until fully hardened. Gently remove the soap from the mold once it's set.
Melt & pour soap is ready to use immediately and does not require curing. Store your finished soaps in a cool, dry place and wrap them if you're not using them right away to avoid sweating.
Note:
All recipes are provided for the use of the customers of Voyageur Soap & Candle Company Ltd. Their electronic or print reproduction is strictly forbidden.
All formulas and recipes have been formulated by Voyageur but we accept no liability as to their effectiveness or the success of the formulas when being made. It is essential that good manufacturing practices are followed in their use, and it is the responsibility of the user to meet the appropriate regulatory requirements of their jurisdiction in all matters.
All formulas remain the property of Voyageur, and their reproduction or redistribution is strictly forbidden without our written consent.
Common Issues:
Discoloration:
Fragrance Oils are most of the time the Culprit when a soap discolors. Some fragrance oils already have a dark color straight out of the bottle. Also you will want to check each fragrance for its Vanillin content. If the Fragrance contains Vanillin, your soap will over time turn to a tan color. Some Fragrances can even turn them to a very dark brown. Keep that in mind when wanting to make a bright or white colored soap.
Ripples:
Ripples can happen when the Soap is not fully hardened and the mold is being moved or a fan or air draft is blowing across the cooling soap.
Bubbles:
Bubbles happen when mixing fragrance and colorants into the soap, however they burst easily by being sprayed with Isopropyl Alcohol
Sweating:
If your Soap starts sweating after a few days of making it , it could be due to the humidity . It's best to package Melt and Pour Soap right away into shrink wrap or plastic wrap. Sweating does not mean that your soap is bad, it merely does not look appealing. However, sweating can also be caused by overheating the base. So be sure to not have it boil in your microwave . Even if the base starts steaming as you remove it from the microwave it's very likely burned.
If you have a lot of issues with your melt and pour sweating, try our SFIC Low Sweat White and SFIC Low Sweat Clear bases.
Botanicals:
While dried Botanicals look amazing in Soaps, they are not compatible with Melt and Pour Soap. Due to Melt and Pour Soap being Glycerin based it will rehydrate dried Botanicals and cause them to eventually mold . Lavender buds will turn the soap brown and moldy so it's best to refrain from adding them into your soap.
Layers separating:
When adding a 2nd layer to a soap you may notice it separating from the first layer, if this happens you likely poured the 2nd layer too long after pouring the first. The bottom layer has to solidify but cannot be too cold. The top layer cannot be too hot nor too cold.You can also score the first layer and be sure to spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol as it helps the layers to adhere to each other.
Low lather:
Adding too much of an additive will reduce lather. This is often seen when adding powders or additional oils.
Powders such as clays or even activated charcoal in excess will increase the volume of the soap,with more of the powder there will be less soap hence your lather will be affected.
Adding oils will also cause this low lather affect. While adding oils will increase moisture it will decrease the ability to lather, as oil by itself does not lather.
To prevent a loss in lather use small amounts of additives to your soap, just enough to give the desired affect but not too much to disrupt the ratio of soap to additive.