Oatmeal, milk, and honey harmonize beautifully to craft a soothing soap that can be effortlessly prepared at home with a melt and pour method. Our detailed PDF guide provides step-by-step instructions for creating this delightful soap on your own. The calming properties of oatmeal, the moisturizing benefits of milk, and the sweet aroma of honey make this soap perfect for a tranquil and gentle skincare ritual. Follow the directions carefully and enjoy the process of making a luxurious soap that pampers your skin with each use.
Click here to download the Step by Step PDF Guide!
Recommended Ingredients:
Recipe:
- 681g SFIC Honey Melt & Pour Base
- 681g SFIC Oatmeal Melt & Pour Base
- 40g Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
- 2g Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
- 3 x 0.15cc scoop of 24 Karat Gold Mica
- 25g rolled Oats
Recommended Utensils:
- 1x Regular Loaf Silicone Soap Mold
- 1x Honeycomb Silicone Mold
- 2x Easy Pour Measuring Cups
- 1x small mixing cup
- 1x 0.15 cc Plastic Scoop
- Stainless Steel Heavy Gauge Soap Cutter
- Scale
- Sticks to stir
- Gloves
Directions:
- Step 1: Weigh out and cut your Melt and Pour soap bases and place into 2 measuring cups. You will want to have in one easy pour measuring cup the Honey base and in one easy pour measuring cup the Oatmeal base.
- Step 2: In a microwave carefully heat up the easy pour cup containing the honey base using 10 second bursts to avoid overheating of the base. Once melted add a mix of Isopropyl Alcohol and the 24 Karat Gold Mica and mix.
- Step 3: Add 20g of the Fragrance into the base. Once mixed, pour the Honey soap base slowly into the Honeycomb Mold, spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol to pop any unwanted bubbles. Let it set for about 15 min . Then repeat. In total we used 5 of the Honeycomb embeds for the top.
- Step 4: Once the last Embed begins to set , melt down your Oatmeal base again in 10 second bursts to be sure it doesn't overheat. Once fully melted add 20g of the fragrance. Now begin to slowly pour the Honey Base into the loaf , followed by the oatmeal base and then again by the honey base until the mold is almost filled ,leave about half an inch on the top .Spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol to pop bubbles and let the soap set for about 20 min.
- Step 5: Once the Soap has formed a layer on top, carefully remelt the rest of your two bases . Now spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol onto your Soap Loaf , wait 5 minutes for the soap to get a little cooler and then begin to slowly pour the 2 bases one on each side so they meet in the middle. Pour closely to the top of the soap to minimize the chance of the soap breaking through the layer.
- Step 6: Once poured , place the honeycomb embeds on the Honey base and sprinkle on the Oatmeal base some Rolled Oats.
- Step 7: Then use some leftover honey base and pour it slowly in zigzag motion onto the rolled oats , that way they won’t fall off the Soap later on. Let the Soap harden for 24h .
- Step 8: Once fully set , carefully unmold the soap and cut into desired thickness using your Stainless Steel Heavy Gauge Soap Cutter.
Common Issues:
Discoloration:
Fragrance Oils are most of the time the Culprit when a soap discolors. Some fragrance oils already have a dark color straight out of the bottle. Also you will want to check each fragrance for its Vanillin content. If the Fragrance contains Vanillin, your soap will over time turn to a tan color. Some Fragrances can even turn them to a very dark brown. Keep that in mind when wanting to make a bright or white colored soap.
Ripples:
Ripples can happen when the Soap is not fully hardened and the mold is being moved or a fan or air draft is blowing across the cooling soap.
Bubbles:
Bubbles happen when mixing fragrance and colorants into the soap, however they burst easily by being sprayed with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Sweating:
If your Soap starts sweating after a few days of making it , it could be due to the humidity . It's best to package Melt and Pour Soap right away into shrink wrap or plastic wrap. Sweating does not mean that your soap is bad, it merely does not look appealing. However, sweating can also be caused by overheating the base. So be sure to not have it boil in your microwave . Even if the base starts steaming as you remove it from the microwave it's very likely burned.
If you have a lot of issues with your melt and pour sweating, try our SFIC Low Sweat White and SFIC Low Sweat Clear bases.
Botanicals:
While dried Botanicals look amazing in Soaps, they are not compatible with Melt and Pour Soap. Due to Melt and Pour Soap being Glycerin based it will rehydrate dried Botanicals and cause them to eventually mold . Lavender buds will turn the soap brown and moldy so it's best to refrain from adding them into your soap.
Layers separating:
When adding a 2nd layer to a soap you may notice it separating from the first layer, if this happens you likely poured the 2nd layer too long after pouring the first. The bottom layer has to solidify but cannot be too cold. The top layer cannot be too hot nor too cold.You can also score the first layer and be sure to spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol as it helps the layers to adhere to each other.
Low lather:
Adding too much of an additive will reduce lather. This is often seen when adding powders or additional oils.
Powders such as clays or even activated charcoal in excess will increase the volume of the soap, with more of the powder there will be less soap hence your lather will be affected.
Adding oils will also cause this low lather affect. While adding oils will increase moisture it will decrease the ability to lather, as oil by itself does not lather.
To prevent a loss in lather use small amounts of additives to your soap, just enough to give the desired affect but not too much to disrupt the ratio of soap to additive.